An early morning start we head back to the cultural centre
for a mandatory briefing from Parks Canada, learning about rules
within Sirmilik National Park, polar bear safety, and history of the Thule people, ancestors of the present day Inuit.
Finally it's time to go to the beach to begin our journey
across the ice! Me and Beatrice, along with our
guide Jane hop in the back of the pickup truck for the drive across town (everyone else uses the hotel van but we opt for the northern way).
Bea, as we call her, is a fun, super
intelligent 10 year old who's been dreaming of seeing narwhals for a few years
now. She literally knows everything about them, I call her our mini-guide. It's
fun to have her around, her silliness and excitement rubs off, I can't wait to
see her face when we see our first narwhal.
We're met on the shores by our local Inuit experts, and additional guides with Arctic Kingdom who've been preparing for the journey - Andy and Dave. Most trips like this, that are highly experiential, need that 'access person' for the region - ours is Sheatie Tagak, a 64 year old elder, he knows the
land inside and out. His smiling face and giddy personality is warming. Sheatie chooses (locals from Pond Inlet) who he wants to come to the floe edge and most are related to him in some way. In addition to the team with us now, there's others waiting for us at camp - Camp Manager Angus, Sous Chef Robin, Head Chef
Phil and Calm (along with a resident Inuk).
It's time to load the sleds! Layered up, this will be the
coldest part of the trip, 5-7 hours in the Qamatik being pulled by snow mobile to the floe edge (with stops along the way). I've got 2
pairs of thermals on, a thick fleece, goose
down under jacket, parka, snow pants,
and my handy never fail Bog boots.
The coldness, well, yes, it gets told at times. Maybe its because I'm accustomed to cold Calgary winters, but the beauty of the area outweighs the annoyance of the cold, and you just learn to deal with it. I watch fellow travellers - warming up by cuddling together (looks pretty romantic, actually), others who make a bed on the bottom of the sled, wrapped up in all sorts of layers and sheltered from the extremes - or some of us who can't help but to stand up with the wind blasting right into your face and take it all in.
Pond Inlet is soon out of sight as we convoy
changing ice - flat and smooth spots followed by cracks that requires
a particular technique. Surrounded by mountains covered with light fog - the
scenery is dramatic, peaceful - I don't use this word lightly, but heavenly. I have to pinch myself, this is seriously incredible.
We stop for lunch at the base of a mountain sheltered from
the wind, a bright blue stream of glacial water meanders around us. A picnic
filled with choices of the sandwiches, desert bars, coffee, tea...we're
promised the food will get better. I'm in one of the most remotest places on the earth, certainly cannot say this is roughing it.
Guides from Parks Canada join us and we head across the frozen
bay to Bylot Island to visit a site once home to the Thule people. This is the
only time for the next few days we'll actually walk on land. The site houses
old Thule 'shelters', a bowl shape dugout in the ground surrounded by rocks where
they would spend the winter. The ground is sprinkled with little purple
flowers, it's amazing that they grow here. There's an old grave site, a human
skull is still tact along with the pelvic bones. In the distance we can see a
towering iceberg, "that's our camp", one of guides says. Yay! Let's
go.
Another hour long ride, skies are clearing and the sun is
shining. We make a stop at a seal hole and little Bea acts as our seal, flopping
about and joking around.
Finally, the camp becomes closer and closer. Yellow and
orange tents along with large round yurts that will serve as our homes.
This is a
serious operation. There is a
bathroom tent complete with specialized expedition toilets, hot showers if the
need arises. The lounge and cooking tent is amazing - a fireplace surrounded by
books and literature, dining tables...and the all important coffee and tea bar
complete with snacks galore.
The food is a whole other entry. Arctic kingdom has paired up with chef Matt Binkley and his team to create a complete dining experience
in the Arctic. Phil and Robin are artists, serving an array of tasty treats.
Beside us sits a towering iceberg, adding to the backdrop of
this stunning landscape.
After dinner we're ready for the floe edge, but alas, the weather
here changes quicker than I can pack my camera back, the fog has socked us in,
so instead we hike over to circumnavigate the iceberg. By the time we get back
it's 1130 pm, the sun is still shining and it's impossible to think of bedtime…but, we must sleep.
The iceberg by the way - - - way way way cool. I can't think of a better place for an evening jaunt.
No comments:
Post a Comment