The Most Phycadalic Dream of My Life

This morning was a 5am wake up call and for some stupid reason I stayed up until 1am last night watching flying fish and chatting with friends. 

I couldn't miss the zodiac cruising through the mushroom like limestone islands, watching for birds and looking at rock art...but after a few hours on the zodiac and having breakfast looking like a total zombie I decided it would be best to skip the morning snorkel and catch up on some sleep.

I'm pretty sure I had a better trip than anyone awake cause I had the most crazy dreams that I can ever remember. 

I was on this trip with small avatar like creatures everywhere, fish jumping into the boat with big eyes, multiple heads making faces and waving at me, tribal humans with strange things growing out of their heads, little creatures resembling mudskippers and sea stars, thousands of dolphins jumping over me spinning high into the air. 

Then I'm on land taking pictures and instead of a normal camera flash, the flash would come out of the front of the camera on a long pole shooting like 30 feet in front of it and at the end of the pole a big umbrella would come out flapping open and closed. The umbrella was alive, everything was alive. The umbrella hit a palm tree and suddenly all the palm trees started falling over hitting the ocean and village, ruining everything in its path. I felt so guilty and had to tell the chief of the village that it was me that destroyed the village, it was such an awful feeling. 

Waking up, these scenes were so vidid, I really felt like I just experienced something totally out of this world. 

Later in the day as I reflected on all that happened in my dream, I realize that my brain was filing and sorting everything that I've been learning and experiencing on this trip. All the diverse marine life we've seen, the umbrella from my camera was actually images of the flying foxes we saw at Palau Palau Su, the falling palm trees that we learned about during one of the lectures onboard, how they grow in the soil and eventually fall over. And me ruining the village was a reflection to us humans destroying the planet. 

I just think that it's interesting how we are all so connected, and how our minds work to filter our experiences. 

Mommon Peninsula, West Papua

Mommon Peninsula, West Papua 

A beautiful morning at sea and headed to the 'waterfall'...a huge of spinner dolphins to the starboard side of the ship. The captain (who is excellent by the way), gets us right up to the waterfall, and we're told to get our swimsuits on cause we're going for a zodiac cruis!!! YAY!!! I'm so excited I can hardly contain myself. We definitely got the 'fun boat' with MiMo as our driver all of us are laughing, screaming and shouting as he sucks the zodiac right under the waterfall, the fresh water is pounding us, cruising around bailing water for another few dips, so much fun!!! The captain comes down dressed in uniform and joins in the fun. 

Whatever hangover I had from my birthday party was long gone!

Repositioning the ship into a secluded bay the scenery is beautiful, limestone islands, bright blue water and pristine beaches. The rainforest comes right down to the water and it's an interesting dynamic. 

The snorkeling here is spectacular, among the best I've done. Water so calm and warm, fish just everywhere above huge sea beds of branching coral. 

A colorful sunset off the horizon and an end to another great day!

Jayapura, West Papua

We woke today cruising the northern coast of Papua New Guinea, crossing over into Papua, a province of Indonesia. 

Welcomed by dancers dressed in their traditional wear, the girls with elaborate head gear made if birds of paradise, the men painted with red beetle nut and grass skirts. 

There is an option to go to the McArthur Monunent, an important historical site from World War Two, or the local market and natural history museum. 

We opted for the market to get a glimpse into local life. Jayapura is so different than Wekak in that it's totally Indonesian, I knew the trip involved Indosnesia but am learning so much about the corrupt and debatable politics of this region. 

Entering the maze of shops the people are all over us to take their pictures, pointing at beetle nut, fish, clothes, smiling and cheering. It's so nice to be asked to take shots of then whereas in so many other countries it's frowned upon or awkward at times to shoot the locals. 

We continued on to the natural history museum which showcases some awesome collections from tribes all over New Guinea. 

The local guide tells us we have to stop at the school for cake that they made us, and as we go in the children and teachers are just going crazy, they have their cameras, putting us knot position to get photographed with the kids. One lady came and put a little bird of paradise hair clip on me, then another comes and crowns me with a tiara made of chicken feathers. It was time to go but they wouldn't stop taking pictures, "one more one more!", sunglasses on, then off, so many different positions and we finally got outta there. So fun! 

Raja Ampat, West Papua

Raja Ampat - Gam Island, Kri Island, West Papua, Indonesia 

It's my birthday and I can't think of a better way to spend it. An early start today, we woke early at 430am to get off on Gam Island and see the bird of paradise. It was really cool to be arriving here in the dark, disembarking the zodiac with our headlamps on walking through the village with the local people standing outside their houses looking at us. So quiet, with the birds chirping and whispers as we passed. To reach the tree where these birds are known to be we hike for about 45 minutes up a fairly steep trail, the humidity is at 100% and I'm completely sopping wet in sweat. There are about 8 or so birds of paradise up at the top of the tree, the males displaying their dance, shaking their booties to attract the females. These birds are known to be the prettiest on the planet are it's truly awesome to have seen them.

The village is so pretty and clean, wandering through and getting a glimpse into these peoples lives, dogs running around, they were just as inquisitive to us as the people which was strange. 

We stopped at the school and the children all sang a song for us, so we all sang "Row Row Row Your Boat" for them. At the end Zegrahm presented the school with a big bag of supplies, the children were in amazement as Shirley showed all the contents. 

Two snorkels sites this afternoon, the diversity of corals and fish is incredible! It's cool to be in one spot where the water is totally calm and then go to another and the current just pulls you along the reef. 

One of the things I'm loving about this trip is the quality of the guides, to have them in the water with us pointing out everything we're looking at makes such a difference, they are just as excited to be here as we are, if not more. They are also very encouraging that we try free diving, going down and holding your breath so you can go lower and see more. Giving us lessons and tips to get better, watching us and critiquing. These things make all the difference than just plumping in the water and looking around. 

Birthday party celebrations tonight, dinner with 89 year young 'Beanie' onboard, her zest for life is inspiring. Party in the lounge dancing a singing, what a truly memorable birthday here is the Raja Ampat.

Expedition Day at Sea!

We are cruising the north coast of Papua on Western New Guinea and could not be more excited! As we learn more about the region it really makes you realize what an amazing part of the world we're in. 

The Coral Triangle, and we are headed for the very heart of it known as the Raja Ampat, the most biodiverse and richest marine community on the planet...WOW!!! 

Yesterday was a full day of lectures held by the amazing expedition team and guest speakers onboard - Reefs,  the Rainforest Under the Sea explained how this whole ecosystem works and thrives; Introduction to Indonesia taught us all about Indonesia as a whole, the people, history, political and religious significance as well as the various wildlife and marine life by each region. Sumatra and Borneo for it's critically endangered orangutans, tigers, rhinos and elephants, Papua for the Raja Ampat and Asmat, reefs and volcanoes. With over 18,000 islands Indonesia is certainly much more interesting than I realized before learning about it on this trip. 

Alfred Wallace is said to be the forgotten explorer, back in the early to mid 1800's he ventured out collecting specimens and exploring new lands, he actually came up with the idea of evolution just as Darwin did, at one point while he was in this region he sent a letter back to Darwin in England explaining what he was finding, essentially a similar theory, but allowed Darwin to take all the glory. Quite interesting if you think how history as we know could of turned out had things unfolded differently. 

The other cool thing I've learned about the Coral Triangle and why it's so biodiverse is the fact that during the ice age this is one of the areas that never froze over, so you have species that have been evolving for millions of years. 

So much more to say but so little time between all the awesome things happening onboard so you'll have to pick my brain later. 

Airways Hotel, Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea

The Airways Hotel is known as one if the best airport hotels in the world with a long list of awards received over the years.

Certainly one of the most unique properties I've stayed in. 

Port Moresby is one of those places that you don't go wandering around on your own. There are a few hotels around the Yacht Club and downtown but honestly think the Airways Hotel is the only place to stay here, hands down. 

Two minutes from the airport you enter this secure compound - it's like entering into a totally new planet or something, here you are in Papua New Guinea, and walking into this exquisite 5 star hotel. 

The property is totally secure and safe...in fact, the Australian Prime Minister is staying here right now along with other MP's and political figures. Red carpet, full police escort and all, we've watched him come and go a few times, kind of neat.

Anyways, the hotel is built along the hill and spans 7 floors, beautiful peices of art, glass enclosed fountains and ponds, lounges and retail outlets. Up the elevator on the top floor, you come out with sweeping views of the airport,ush mountains to the left and views of the sea to the right. Walking over the raised walkway towards the restaurant there's a plane sitting on the cliff pointed out at the airport. Total WOW factor. The pool, restaurant, bar, pizza place, deli is all on the top level. This place is truly it's own little city, there's also a food/general store, currency exchange and ATM, barbar shop, kids toy store. 

A lot of Australians come to PNG to work and the place seems to be hopping.

A Shout Out to Air Nuigini

I had low expectations for Air New Guinea but must say they provided some of the best service I've had with an airline.

The guy who checked us in at Brisbane was so friendly and went out of his way to ask us how he could help, offered us exit rows and made sure we were sitting together, just all around nice and welcoming. 

Once onboard the smily flight attendant was curious about where we were going, and took great care of us. I asked for a beer, she opens two kinds of PNG brews and tells me I must taste both to make sure which one I like...they were both good so I kept em, haha. She came by every so often to make sure we were topped up with whatever we needed...she really loved her job and could see she genuinely wanted to please the passengers onboard. 

Arriving Port Moresby it turns out there's no longer a fee for the visa ($50 USD) - you can either apply in advance or on arrival, we opted for on arrival and it was quick a painless. 

A Day in Brisbane

After 30 hours if traveling Jen and i couldn't be happier to get off the plane and outside in the fresh air..we're free at last!!!

The transit system in Brisbane is well connected and super convenient - the Air Link takes you directly from the airport into the city in less than 20 minutes. The larger stations like Fortitude Valley and Central Station are laid out as mini-centers, with food courts, shops and other outlets.

We opted to stay at The Miro Apartments in 'The Valley', an area just outside of downtown known for its nightlife and funky atmosphere.

Feeling pretty jetlagged we forced ourselves to freshen up and check out the city, with only 1 day here we might as well make the best of it.

The Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary has good reviews, just 12kms from the centre you can taxi, bus, or there's a scenic boat trip along the river that departs every day at 11. The Sanctuary offers the opportunity to cuddle a koala, pet kangaroos, as well as other wildlife and unique 'behind the scenes' experiences. It was getting a bit late in the afternoon to fit in so unfortunately no cuddling of koalas took place. 

Instead, we took a bus up to one of the ferry terminals and cruised up river checking out the Story Bridge, Southbank and ended downtown at Queenstreet. Another great thing with the transit system, the ticket includes use across the trains, buses and ferries making for an easy, inexpensive way to see the sights.

Queenstreet Mall is a large, vibrant outdoor/indoor complex filled with stores of all sorts, eateries, bars. I've decided that Australia has way better clothing stores than we have in Canada... If I had any room left in my bags I'd be taking full advantage.

 

In the evening Jen and I met up with a friend I met at Virtuoso Week a few

years ago...'Zip'...always nice to catch up with people on the other side of the world. 

Starting at at the Emporium Hotel for pre dinner cocktails - a gorgeous property, uptown-chic with cool lighting and accents - in a complex filled with various dining venues from casual Mexican to upscale Turkish. 

After dinner we headed up the street to Cloudland, one of Brisbane's most popular nightclubs, Thursday Salsa night with a live band...all I can say is WOW, what a place. Two levels, vines and plants coming down from the ceiling, crazy chandeliers, private booths with various decor...I can't even describe it. I really wish I wasn't so completely  exhausted with 'plane brain' and swollen ankles so I could embarrass myself with my awesome salsa moves on the dance floor! Men looking for dance partners started to be too much and we decided to head across the street to some place quieter...The Elixer is a cozy rooftop bar with its own character, Zip knows the owner and he joined us for a drink - some good laughs and conversation, a relaxing way to wind down at the end of the night. 

Headed to New Guinea!

It's that time again...excited and on my way to one of the wildest places on earth, New Guinea! 

Getting there isn't easy...a 10 hour layover in LAX, waiting for my best friend to arrive from Vancouver, then a long flight to Brisbane via Nadi (Fiji)...we opted for points and that's what you get so we just have to deal with it (there's quicker ways!) 

We'll spend a night in Brisbane checking out the city and night scene before another flight up to Port Moresby where we meet Zegrahm Expeditions and the rest of our group...and then (yes, and then) a quick flight up to Wewak where we board the Caledonian Sky for an expedition cruise around the western side of New Guinea. 

Stay tuned for updates...