Friday 4 July 2014

Arctic Kingdom's Narwhal & Polar Bear Safari - Day 1

After arriving in Ottawa at 230am, a sleepless night, I was up early and back at the airport for the journey to the great white north - bound for Pond Inlet via Iqaluit. 


High above the clouds over northern Quebec, the mainland disappears as we cross over the Hudson Bay - what begins as small chunks of ice in the water below turn into lily pad shaped bergs. This is it! As we decend our way into iqaluit the land is rolling tundra, rock and ice covering the bay. 
A short drive back to the airport, I walk strait through the door and shuttled to our Dash 8. Pond inlet is a town of 1500, large for a northern community. Children playing with kites made out of plastic bags, houses raises on blocks due to the permafrost, Bylot Island across the frozen bay. The shore is dotted with Qamutiq (Inuit sleds designed to travel on ice and snow) and dogs. The wind is howling, its cold, but so remotely beautiful. This, is the Arctic. I've been dreaming about this for years and I'm here!This evening we walk to the cultural centre to learn more about the Inuit way of life - The Northern Games (kind of like the Olympics but strange competitions consisting of wrapping ones arms around each other necks and pulling on the others lip until one gives in, to standing on forefingers and kicking up to a piece of seal bait). I guess you gotta spend your time doing something? Some of these activities must have been invented in the dead and darkness of winter. The presentation concludes with drums and throat singing. The people here are interesting, smiling, shy, and so friendly. 
Its about 11pm - completely light out. Welcome to no darkness for the next 7 days. Welcome to trying to sleep. It really throws a person off...I wake at 230am to the sun peering through the curtains, time to get up yet? This will take a couple days to get used to.


With an hour to connect I'm met by smiling Arctic Kingdom staff and some of my group; 6 travelers from Germany and Switzerland. "Let's go check out the town", one of the gals says...I'm like, really? What about our flight? "Oh, there's lots of time". Hmmm…ok, cool. 
Iqaluit, the capital of Nunavut, is a population of 7000, mostly Inuit. Dirt roads, buildings built for the harsh climate - Iqaluit is a bustling little town. Our quick tour allows us to check out the legislative building, filled with beautiful artwork, furniture adorned with seal fur, narwhal tusks and other materials made from the land; the Arctic hotel, RBC bank (for some last minute cash) and shopping! 

As our flight nears Pond Inlet the scenery is dramatic - snow covered mountains, ice as far as the eye can see, the small northern community hugs the shore. Huge cracks in the ice...the land looks so unforgiving and I'm thinking what the hell have i got myself into? Oh my gosh. Excited, ecstatic and a little bit nervous. 

I'm greeted by Jane, our guide (from Canmore) and whisked down the street to the hotel waiting for the rest of the group to arrive - a mother and daughter from London, and a couple from Ohio.


The Inuit are proud people and it shows in conversations about hunting and their way of life. While everyone speaks english, the main language here is Inuktitut. It's interesting to think that this is part of Canada, but so different from anything most of us know, or even realize as part of this country. 
Nunavut is Canada's most northern territory and is one of the world's most remote settled regions. Divided from the Northwest Territories in 1999, the word, "Nunavut" translates to "Our Land". 







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