We're headed into the Asmat, located on the south western
part of New Guinea. The Asmat is a region dotted with villages but it's also a
people and a culture. The headhunters, these people are also world famous for
their wood carving and art. One the the most primitive cultures in the world, the entire
society is extremely complex, the way these people live is fascinating. I'll have to post some
some some fact sheets to really explain
it, but it's all about balance, ancestors play a huge role in why
these people do what they do and live the way they live. Animal symbols like
flying foxes, cuscus and others are represented throughout the artwork,
mirroring animals who 'eat heads', like the people.
The social system is quite interesting, I think. There
are men's houses, places for women and children. Each gender and age range has specific roles, beliefs and traditions on reproduction and maturity.
Unlike western society, there is little focus on
individualism.
The sea goes from blue to brown as we enter into the
Awesets River, only 2 meters under the keel and at one point we ran aground for
a brief moment. The captain has updated charts which are incorrect so he
reverts to the charts used on a previous expedition.
We anchor and not soon after, Lex Mono is met by a small
boat, 3 of us are down at the marina watching as they pull up, wearing head
feathers, huge bone rings in their noses. So exciting! Lex is a legend, he's
the guy that gives us access to these villages, he's been coming here for years
and if it wasn't for him these visits would be difficult or impossible to
arrange. He leaves us this evening to join the people, helping them prepare for
our arrival which apparently involves no sleep and lots of beetle nut.
For the first time (that we've noticed) on this voyage,
the ship has spotters and security up through the night on look out. It's
reassuring and makes me super excited, a bit nervous, anticipating the days
ahead.
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